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They call it the Serbian Pyramid, as much for its conical form as for the intriguing stories about it. Situated in the central part of the spacious Crna Reka (Black River) valley, its 1,561-metre peak, called Šiljak, dominates the landscape. This recognizable mountain is visible from all directions and regions of eastern Serbia. "Rising suddenly above the surrounding area, and isolated, it reigns sovereign over the environment with the stature of a leader and emblem", wrote natural scientist Jovan Cvijić.
Mt. Rtanj has ever attracted travel writers and naturalists and beauty seekers. Its characteristic appearance, specific relief combining rocky massifs, forests and grazing land that accommodate diverse plant and animal life is captivating. There are paths for walking and recreation, while the thick vegetation, breathtaking local landscape and healthy air offer enormous delight. Climbing to the top of Mt. Rtanj outstrips any other pleasure that may be had here. Mountaineers, free climbers, nature lovers, hunters, fishermen and other visitors never miss the chance to climb Šiljak. When the weather is clear, one can see Mt. Avala, the Danube River, Mt. Kopaonik, Mt. Jastrebac, Mts. Kučajske Planine, Mt. Stara Planina... It is generally acknowledged that climbing to the top of Mt. Rtanj implies climbing the roof of Serbia. Climbing Mt. Rtanj at night is a unique experience. For the past century, mountaineers have maintained a tradition of climbing the mountain at night, in July, during a full moon, reaching the top as dawn cracks and the sun appears. Climbing in silence, a winding line of mountaineers is illuminated by moonlight, creating an indescribable magic. Once they reach the top at dawn, the mountaintop offers breathtaking vistas in every direction, towards sunlit surrounding landscape far and near.
 This mountain owes its mystique to legends. According to one, the pyramidal slopes are the result of molten gold that flowed from the mountain’s peak. According to this version, a wealthy wizard used to live at the top in a castle made of gold and gems. The castle went into flames and the molten gold flowed down the mountain slopes. Stories about fire, fireballs and riders on winged horses cannot escape the careful listener. Old folk here speak of strange lights and fireballs wandering the mountain. Some believe they are searching for the vandals who desecrated the Chapel of St. George at the summit. There are also stories that the mountain is a landing site for unidentified flying objects; and also, that civilisations unknown have been visiting the mountain for ages. Stories are not wanting, nor are witnesses. Moreover, there is even a kind of awe in which the local residents hold the mountain. But proof – there is none.
However, there is another type of proof that something indeed did come down from the sky. A meteorite fell on Mt. Rtanj 150 years ago. This is an officially registered event and the first ever recorded in Serbia. A rain of meteorites, as well as hefty rocks weighing up to 50 kilos rained on the area between Mt. Rtanj and the town of Sokobanja. The event was recorded by scientists, and one of the larger meteorites is now in America. Interestingly enough, no one was hurt in the meteorite shower.
Some other things have been established as well. What also makes this mountain so special is the large number of medicinal herbs (80 percent of overall quantity of medicinal herbs collected in Serbia) among which the best known is the endemic rtanjska ljubičica (Satureja kitaibelii), which is used to make the famous Rtanj tea that has salubrious, and even aphrodisiac qualities. The plant is to be found on the mountain’s mid-range on the southern slope and is picked in August when herbalists and medicinal herbs pickers from around Europe traditionally rally here. The existence of several species of orchids in this area is also noteworthy.
 Mt. Rtanj is in fact the tallest mountain of the Carpathian Serbia. Its geological excellence was instrumental in Mt. Rtanj being placed on the Geo-Inheritance of Serbia List. Its southern and northern slopes, however, differ in that the latter are very steep and covered in beautiful beech tree forests and communities of beech and fir trees, while the southern slopes are gentler, housing grazing land and flowering meadows. The mountain’s higher regions are covered in rocky terrain and thickets with just a few occasional grassy plateaus. Owing to the fact that limestone is predominant, the mountain abounds in pits and caves. Mt. Rtanj is waterless and uninhabited, but it is very lively and water rich at the foot of the mountain. Apart from the source of the Crni (Black) Timok River and the Vrelo Lozica, Buk, Lukovsko Vrelo springs, the spring from the Radovanjska River flows in the Timok River. These waters abound in trout and chub and are a fisherman’s paradise. Over 100 bird species are to be found here. This mountain is home to the short-toed and golden eagles and the gray falcon, including some 90 other species. Several white stork couples nest in the villages along the Crni Timok River. Game, some of which fall into the endangered species category, is also quite numerous. Mt. Rtanj is home also to renowned hunting grounds covering an area of 6,300 hectares. Flocks of sheep also live on the mountain, albeit in smaller number than previously, despite superb grazing conditions.
At the foot of the mountain are a number of settlements, the largest of which are Rtanj, Mirovo, Lukovo, Krivi Vir and Šarbanovac. Krivi Vir is an old settlement, and it was here that the Timočka Buna (the 1884 Timok Uprising) was launched. Several hot water springs and a number of mountain springs are to be found here as well. At the far end of this settlement is the Pećura, a cave with several springs whose gushing waters eventually form the Crni Timok River. The river’s source is at a large rock; the sun’s rays very rarely penetrate the surrounding moss-covered rocks and overgrown shrubbery.
 Poet Vojislav Ilić best described this extraordinary setting: "Up above - the brilliance of the sun, the magic of green rocks; down below - the gurgling Timok springs from the depths of the cold and dank cave", as the inscription on a sign by the spring reads. Further down, the Timok flows gently by the village of Krivi Vir and on through the Crna Reka valley expanse. Popular writer Mirjana Jakovljević once worked for five years as a teacher in this village. Whether she conceived and jotted down the ideas for some of her book characters in this village, no one can say with with certainty. Some of the older villagers remember her and say she maintained correspondence with an airman. Was this love? They cannot say. What they do know is that she loved to take walks in the surrounding countryside. Krivi Vir used to be a wealthy and large village, renowned far and wide for quality lamb and a type of cheese made here. It is also well-known for its hospitality and the outgoing nature of its residents.
Ilino is the oldest village at the foot of Mt. Rtanj. Once the mine management was headquartered here. The mine belonged to the Minh family. Ilino is the birthplace of renowned sculptor Ljubinka Savić Grasi. Her deathbed wish was to have the house in which she was born turned into an ethno-museum and gallery. It was also to accommodate art colonies.
The Minh family have started an arboretum, which is unique in an European context. It is located next to what is today the Rtanj tourist village. Experts have identified more than 150 species of different trees and other vegetation that the family planted. The arboretum boasts walking paths, benches, drinking water fountains, stairways, a glasshouse and an interesting rose garden with a water fountain. A new life began for this settlement with the arrival of Millennium Group – primarily affecting the Rtanj resort, which has been completely overhauled. It was turned into a tourist and hotel/catering complex with quality and modern outfitted accommodations, an excellent catering offer and accompanying facilities. Extensive work is currently under way to clear up three hectares of the park to prepare it for making walking paths. In addition to this facility, Balašević Motel is also where tourists may find accommodation. Its interesting exterior architectural blend perfectly into the surrounding landscape as do the village houses in the Boljevac area.
 The mountain skyline of Mt. Rtanj and other mountain ranges make the Crna Reka valley one of the most beautiful regions in the Balkans. The area around Mt. Rtanj was populated during the Great Migration with people from Old Serbia and Wallachian regions. The story notes that the newcomers first came to Dobrujevac where it was good (Dobar – Good), and then proceeded to Boljevac where it was better still (Bolje – Better). In time, the customs and experiences of the old residents and the newcomers combined to create a unique blend of customs and folklore in this area. Boljevac is the centre of the Crna Reka region, and the event called Crnorečje u Pesmi i Igri (Songs and Dances of Crna Reka Region) is held here every year in June. It offers a true image of the colorful nature of the folklore, people and tradition. The event is held for fortieth time this coming June, and is a must.
A visit to the Monastery of Lapušnja, in the Krivi Vir district, is also a magnificent experience. The monumental trifolium-based edifice with a tall dome was constructed after the fashion of the Moravian School sacral buildings. The monastery -- today half in ruins -- was active through the end of the 17th century. Records say it was mentioned in the 1455 Turkish census. It was also the bishop’s seat. Another sacral object at the foot of Mt. Rtanj is the frescoed Church of St. Archangel Gabriel, also known as Lozica. The date of its building is unknown but it is also mentioned in Turkish records. The nearby Bogovinska Pećina cave, too, is a monument of nature warranting attention. It has five kilometres of hallways open to visitors.
Reaching Mt. Rtanj is easy. It is connected by paved roads - 200 km from Belgrade, 49 km from Zaječar, 43 km from Bor, 18 km from Sokobanja and 90 km from Niš. | 
