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JAT ReviewLet viseMiles & More

Following the Footsteps of the Narrow-Gauge Railroad

Visitors to Šargan who enjoy the historic train called Nostalgija (Nostalgia) cover the 15.5-kilometre section in just under two and a half hours, briefly stopping at five panoramas that each offer a vivid view of the beautiful Mt. Zlatibor region.

By Zlatica Ivković
Photo by Dragan Bosnić

The narrow-gauge railroad line used to pass through the colourful environment of Mokra Gora, and the popular Ćira (as the narrow-gauge train was once called) used to transport passengers from Belgrade via Višegrad and Dubrovnik. It took two days and two nights in the Ćira’s wooden carriages to reach Ploče (on the seaside) from Belgrade. The train was in service until the line was discontinued in 1974 because it had become unprofitable. After that, life in the mountains quieted down somewhat until fervent hobbyists, quite in love with narrow-gauge railroads, found out about Šargan by way of specialised journals and the Internet. That was when the first groups of foreign guests and railroad lovers arrived from Austria, Switzerland, England and Denmark to the foot of Mokra Gora.... The visitors toured the area and the section of the famous railroad there, and they were all of one mind that renewing the so-called Šargan’s Eight would present a world-wide attraction, and that tourist-wise it would be the most appealing museum railroad in Europe.

So, at the turn of this century, the railroad tracks and all the accompanying facilities were renewed to serve the tourist industry. An outstanding feature of the enterprise has been the restoration of an entire section, with railroad stations and carriages, including the shovelling of coal into the firebox and driving the steam locomotive. And so, museum railroad lovers today see the narrow-gauge railroad section between Mokra Gora and Šargan Vitasi at the foot of Mt. Zlatibor as the most attractive tourist destination not only in Serbia, but also in this part of the Balkans and Europe.

But, how did it all begin? The construction of the railroad across Šargan was started by the Austrians in 1916. Their idea was to connect Bosnia, which they ruled at the time, with Serbia. The altitude difference between the Mokra Gora Valley and the Šargan saddle was such that it called for special technological solutions. So, the Austrians brought a famous engineer who happened to be serving a life sentence and promised to set him free if he solved the problem. The man went to work, but in the course of digging the Šargan tunnel the two teams failed to meet at midpoint. The Austrians had completed only nine kilometres of railroad track. Construction was relaunched in 1921, and the first train – moving through rocky narrows and deep cuts of Šargan – passed here on its way to the seaside four years later. This happened on February 2, 1925, when the narrow-gauge railroad line from Belgrade via Užice and the Šargan saddle towards Višegrad and Dubrovnik was opened.

People in this area still speak about the prophecy of Mitar Tarabić, a famous clairvoyant from these parts (from Kremna), who prophesied 30 years before the narrow-gauge began operating at Šargan that ‘an iron road would pass through with an iron, flaming car and that would always stop where the Gypsy tents are now...’ Later on he would add: “It will be some years before people remember the iron road and they will renew it. Only this time round, it will not offer service to Višegrad people going there on business, but for fun, relaxation and enjoyment.” The prophet would surely have been more than pleased with the initiative the locals and groups of enthusiasts - who created Steam Locomotives Preservation and Tourism Society, called Balkan STEAM - demonstrated with the view to activating the narrow-gauge railroad and reconstructing the railway tracks. A steam locomotive and carriages were brought in from the Požega Railroad Museum and the train began operating along the length of the renewed 15.5 kilometre section in 2003.

Today, Šargan is the longest and the finest of the remaining narrowgauge line sections that once existed in Europe. It is typical for Serbia, as are all types of locomotive models that are found here. So, what is it that makes the Šargan Eight so special? The line’s name – ‘Eight’ – is derived from the shape of the tracks drawn in an unusual loop leading uphill to overcome the altitude difference measuring 300 metres between the Mokra Gora valley and the Šargan saddle. The engineers/designers and construction workers skillfully dealt with the 300-metre altitude difference from Mokra Gora to Šargan, a distance of 3.5 kilometres, by adopting a unique and the only possible solution – they introduced a railroad track loop above the feet of Jatare, winding it (loop) into a shape resembling the number eight – hence the name of the popular Šargan Eight. The ‘Eight’ section was some 13.5 kilometres long and its section had 22 tunnels, 10 or so bridges and overhead crosses, all of which accounted for one-third of the line’s length. The Jatare station on this line is probably the only one in the world where for 25 years no one ever got off the train or bought a train ticket, although the train would regularly stop here. Passengers found it impossible to discern from which way they came and which way they needed yet to go.

Renowned film director Emir Kusturica and his numerous crew chanced on Mokra Gora when shooting his feature film Život Je Čudo (Life Is a Miracle) and he realised he had stumbled upon perfect scenery. Among the renewed railroad stations, he built the Golubići station, which he had cleverly furnished with a patina finish giving it an appearance of being at least 100 years old. Also, he built a country house there for himself. Later on, someone built another house, then a third appeared and a fifth, then 25th – and so today it is a whole new small town, called Drvengrad, with apartments, a church, gallery, national-style restaurant, movie house, swimming pool, library...

However, one need not be a narrow-gauge railroad enthusiast to enjoy riding the steam driven train along the 15.5 kilometres with 22 tunnels, a number of overpasses and bridges, and to find oneself surrounded by the beauty of the landscape at the foot of Mt. Zlatibor pleasing. Once there, one cannot but get the impression one has reached an amusement park... The approaching roads are all paved, as are the walkways; the springs with clear water are all done up; the Kamešine creek banks are walled in concrete; bathing beaches have been put up... Small steam locomotives and miniature carriages, all polished and parked, remind one of toys that someone has left behind...

Twice a month (every other Saturday), the Serbian railroad company, Serbian Railroads, organises tours to the Šargan narrow-gauge line with a train called Nostalgija (Nostalgia). The train departs from Belgrade to a place called Branešci, on Mokra Gora. From here, passengers are transported in buses to the Šargan Eight and then continue their ride with the Nostalgija train.

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